Some of the most desirable watches in the world aren’t sitting in a boutique window, they’re discontinued, limited, or simply not made anymore. Here are 10 collector-grade timepieces you can still find pre-owned, from a vintage 1970s Rolex Submariner to a military-issue Audemars Piguet.
Once a reference is discontinued, the only way to own it is preloved and that scarcity is exactly what makes these watches worth knowing about. Whether you’re building a collection or looking for a piece with real story behind it, this list covers pilot watches, dive watches, dress watches, and a genuine military limited edition.
1. Rolex Submariner Date "1680" The Original Date Submariner
Ref. 1680 | 40mm | Black Dial | Stainless Steel
The 1680 is where Submariner history really begins — it was the first Submariner to get a date function and a Cyclops lens, produced from the late 1960s through the late 1970s. Every modern Submariner traces its DNA back here. For collectors, an original 1680 is as close as you can get to Rolex sport-watch history without stepping into museum territory.
2. Rolex Submariner "16613" Steel & Yellow Gold Two-Tone
3. Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea "116660"
The original Deepsea, discontinued in 2018 and replaced by an updated case architecture. Rated to 3,900 metres, it remains one of the most serious tool watches Rolex has ever produced oversized, purpose-built, and increasingly hard to find in this exact configuration.
Ref. 214270 | 39mm | Black Dial | Stainless Steel
The 39mm Explorer bridged the gap between the smaller vintage 36mm models and today’s 40mm case a size many collectors consider the sweet spot. Clean, symmetrical, and one of the most underrated references in the Rolex catalogue.
5. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak "Military" 14790ST
Ref. 14790ST | Black Dial | Stainless Steel
Not to be confused with a standard Royal Oak this “Military” dial variant is a genuinely rare configuration within an already iconic line. Fewer of these surface on the market compared to standard Royal Oak references, making it a strong pick for AP collectors looking for something beyond the obvious.
6. Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Rose Gold
Ref. 220.53.43.22.02.001 | 43mm | Rose Gold | Automatic
The Aqua Terra in rose gold takes Omega’s everyday sports-luxury design and elevates it into dress-watch territory. It’s a rarer sight than the steel version and pairs a sophisticated case metal with genuine wrist presence.
7. Omega Constellation 36mm Steel
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36mm | Silver Dial | Stainless Steel | Automatic
The Constellation is one of Omega’s longest-running families, and the 36mm steel silver-dial version is the classic articulation of it the “griffes” (claws) on the case remain one of the most recognisable design details in Swiss watchmaking.
8. IWC Pilot's Watch Spitfire Chronograph IW387901
41mm | Black Dial | Stainless Steel | Automatic
Named after the WWII fighter aircraft, the Spitfire Chronograph carries IWC’s aviation heritage in a wearable 41mm case. Clean black dial, in-house chronograph movement, and a direct link to one of the most storied names in pilot watches.
9. Raymond Weil Tradition 5578-ST-00300
43mm | Silver Dial | Stainless Steel | Quartz
A more accessible entry on this list, the Tradition brings classic dress-watch proportions and Swiss quartz precision at a fraction of the price of the other pieces here a good starting point for someone building toward the rest of this collection.
10. Oris Divers Sixty-Five "Carl Brashear" Limited Edition
Limited Edition | Diver’s Watch
Named after the first African-American U.S. Navy Master Diver, this Oris limited edition is as much a tribute piece as it is a tool watch produced in restricted numbers and already gaining traction among dive-watch collectors specifically for its story and scarcity.